‘Surrealism occurs in everyday life’

This collection is a visual exploration of the surrealism that occurs in everyday life, particularly that of body manipulation and mutation, warping the frame and silhouette to represent distortion and abnormalities in the body. A fresh take on beauty and aesthetics combining a controversial theme with a high fashion avant-garde style. The design process has been heavily influenced and inspired by surrealism, both in real life and in art, particularly the work of Jenny Saville and her portrayal of the female form. Tight panels of warn leathers and skins adorn many of the garments indicating a sense of struggle and restriction, where as the contrasting quilted jerseys bulge and protrude from the figure with the sense of abnormality found in mutated fat and skin. The collections colour theme is based around the warm yellow tones of the body, with the inkblot inspired black used to enhance and cut through the garments with line and structure inspired by the surrealist sculptor Gabriel Orozco.

(photography credited to Lambert Davis)

inspirational imagery for INNOVATION


A/W 2011 TRENDS.

A/W 2011 TRENDS.

Texture fusion
– a fusion of organic textural effects, printed illusions and craft, fabrics contrasting and complimenting each other within garments.

Panelling – combining luxurious fabrics and textures through panelling and patchwork particularly focussing on colour blocking the body.

Tailoring – boyish sensibility and bold masculine tailoring particularly in the trouser to create gender-neutral outerwear.

Sports lounge – luxury fabrics and easy volume styled into sports inspired separates.

Neutral hair and makeup - natural base makeup and easy swept back hair seen on many of the A/W 2011 catwalks provide a natural canvas for the heavily textured and panelled garments.

A/W 2011





Furs/ skins



A/W 2011





Coffee liqueur

Orchid hush


a few from the magazine shoot...




To me, the best information is that of the new and the strange. People often comment on the here and now, the obvious – but what of the unknown and the unheard of underground world that so many of us live to be part of. I often wonder more about what isn’t stuck under my nose or forced upon me by the more contemporary cultural promotion magazines, I am far more interested in what I can uncover from the hidden. What isn’t so apparent or observable, no- I want to know what I can find through the exploration of a person, a place and a new scene.

I bring to you in this supplement a look into a city that is famed for its bad weather, architectural landmarks and afternoon tea- But that isn’t what Purple is about. No, instead we have created a true Purple inspired insight into the urban retreats of the capital city and taken a look into some of London’s more unconventional getaways and recluses in a celebration of the avant-guard and the rebellious. I wanted to show you a different side to a city that is so well known- an alternative travel guide you could say. In any case, it is an exploration into strange, the wonderful and the new.

Our artistic approach, as always, is one that focuses on the hard work and talents of our team, and the expansion of our ever-growing Purple community over seas. But what continues to link us all together, me, the people featured in the publication, and you, the reader is the information we continue to provide, to be part of, and to crave.




Since studying at the London Collage of Fashion Ezme now works as an urban freelance makeup artist in the UK’s capital city. Working in fashion, television and performance, she has been able to develop her artistic skills into the individual exciting talent she shows today.

“I’ve always seen make up as art and a form of self expression.”

“I love that every job I do is so different and I’m constantly meeting new people.”

“London is such a diverse place its hard not be inspired by it! It has everything you'll ever need and things change so quickly here. There are always new things to see and be apart of. It has an energy unlike any other place Iv been to.”

As assistant makeup artist to Vivienne Westwood at this years London Fashion Week and an array of shoots planned over the next couple of moths she keeps herself busy… so does this urbanite manage to fit in any down time in to her demanding schedule…?

“Where I live is on the outskirts of London so it’s a great place to relax and get away from the city.”

“Make up is my life! Its what I do to relax! I also love wandering around London. Just spending some time to really take it all in.”

“London can get quite overwhelming sometime and I think that a break can help you see things (and the city!) In a new light.”



With a string of successful stage shows, BBC dramas and the Hollywood film Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire under her belt the emerging star who bases herself in south London is well and truly living amongst the showbiz community and loving it. After recently finishing her role as Mercedes in the UK’s number one sell out tour of the musical ‘GLEE’ this London socialite is well on her way to becoming a British star on screen and stage.

I have been in the industry since I was two and love it more and more everyday. Performing is my release and being able to do it as a profession is a blessing.”

“London is the UK hub for all things showbiz. Everywhere you turn there are theatres and lots of other stagey things. London has its own showbiz community where everybody knows everybody so its comforting to know your surrounded by people who are doing the same thing as you. You can't find that everywhere.”

“I don't believe that you can ever "Make it" as there is always something bigger and better out there and you can constantly be working to better yourself in whatever you do.”

With a hectic work schedule but a social life that many of is would dream of, is there any real need for this performing belle to get away from it all and find her urban retreat…?

“The performing arts industry can be very stressful at times. If I have had a bad day or a bad audition I sometimes go to the South Bank… walking along the river when it gets dark maybe popping into a few nice bars on the way.”

“My favorite part of the city has to be Soho. Its right in the west end so its a great place to get to after a show and you always end up bumping into people you know. I think its the fact that everyone is embraced in Soho, no matter who you are.”

“My Idea of a London retreat is a weekend in a top hotel with champagne, great food, spa treatments and a really good group of friends. I like staying in hotels in London as it is such an amazing place but when you live and work there you forget how lucky you are to have the amazing things you do around you. When I stay in a hotel I treat London like I'm a tourist and 9 years later I'm still discovering new things. That’s the beauty of the city.”



20 year old British born Barcikowski is emerging as one of the most talented young traceurs in the French adrenalin pursuit of Parkour. Using just his body to overcome urban obstacles, hes ones of London’s real life Spidermen. Weather it’s ‘doing flips in a gorilla suit and feeling like a nobhead’, or ‘being flown out to Dubai to perform in a show for the King’, his passion has given him opportunities beyond what this city boy could ever dream…

“I don't know how long until my knees die and i can no longer withstand brutal impact on my joints.. Its definitely a case of fuck it, this is what’s good right now.”

“Some of my favorite places to go and train would have to be elephant and castle… Its a shit hole but the architecture is perfect for what we do.”

“Being the capital city there has been many print/ video campaigns that use famous London landmarks and ‘urban’ dudes jumping around.”

“Some of the more ghetto looking places make you feel a bit bad ass that your training in such a grimy place ha but as soon as any hooded youths come along I’m ready to climb over a wall and run away!”

So, when he’s not slowly crippling his body or hanging around London’s shitholes how does Spidey retreat in the hustle and bustle of urbanized London…?

“A sunny day/no injuries/ a pair of trainers and jogging bottoms/ money in your wallet to go Tesco’s to get pasta pots and water and a travel card. That is all.”

“Its a good contrast to just be sat on a wall or climbing something wearing jogging bottoms where people think your a bit of a pikey until you do a flip and then there all like oh cool and get their cameras out… and then be walking on the same street wearing jeans and just looking at everything wishing you were dressed accordingly to jump around on it.”

OLIVIER ZAHM - editor of PURPLE... and out right genius.

Olivier Zahm

Olivier Zahm’s love of women is well documented, not least by Zahm himself on his web site, But the French editor and founder of the twice-yearly independent publication Purple Fashion has many other passions: art, fashion, his daily uniform of white or gray jeans and black Yves Saint Laurent leather jacket, parties, freedom. There may be an element of self-promotion behind some of this, but in an increasingly conformist world, Zahm offers an original, entertaining, and astute voice.

“I started to take pictures every day of parties or pictures of my life, I needed an interesting way to use these pictures and not to let them go into digital archives and disappear. Because now everything disappears. It’s digital, but if you don’t copy your hard drive, pictures disappear after one or two years…So then I had this idea of having a personal diary, an intimate diary, mixing intimacy or privacy with my public life and creating a sort of contrast between what’s really intimate, like sex and love, and what’s really public, a party, a fashion show, an exhibition. What’s meant to be public and what’s meant to be private and make them, like, coexist. It was suddenly exciting because it was, in a way, breaking the barriers of something, which is actually what the medium itself, the Internet itself, does. For celebrities it’s a nightmare, but for me it’s a pleasure. It’s a decision. I would love to go further into intimacy, but my girlfriend and my lovers are sometimes a bit reluctant.”

“To me love and sex is the most beautiful thing on earth, you know. It’s more beautiful than a landscape, so I love to keep pictures of the girls in these private moments because they are giving you the most beautiful side of themselves. It’s like a gift from God. It’s beautiful. I’m not New Age, I’m not mystical, I just really love it, and it’s so beautiful to capture with a camera that I really want to share that, you know…And also, Purple is a lifestyle. With my magazine, what I want to do is personally to be more free, and I want people to be more free, to open their possibility of contact, of sex, of love. I want that. This is important to me. I consider that Purple is a free lifestyle. Not in a stupid way, not in a childish or immature way, in a mature way now because I’m 45, 46. So the blog is also this vocation to see what

constructs a lifestyle, to see what could be. If my life would be perfect, it would look like the Purple Diary. You see what I mean? It’s an illusion, too. I’m constructing a character.”

“For fashion, I think a magazine is the place for creativity, because for fashion photography, you don’t only show the last collection and the clothes, you show the way they should be worn, you show or you try to capture a spirit, a certain moment in time, and this is creativity in fashion. It’s a way to incarnate and interpret fashion.”

“Every man should celebrate and seduce women because women love to be celebrated and seduced, and they’re bored if you don’t try to be at your best or have the best conversation, the best look. It’s not an insult to be [called] a playboy…Of course, I love art and have been doing art critiques and have been curating shows, but if you ask me what I prefer, woman or art, I would say woman. Art is art. I need art in my life as much as I need food, but the most beautiful thing on earth is to meet a woman. That’s what you will remember at the end of your life, right? Plus, it’s a game. It’s really funny. You can’t seriously consider yourself a playboy, or you’re already a bad playboy.”

Known as the bad boy of fashion, Zahm is a new breed of editor and creator. Brave enough to cross the boundaries of what is acceptable and push for anti fashion and originality. Provocative and very openly sexual, his personality is clearly portrayed through Purple in the diary format he set out to achieve. The magazine is him, or what he would like to portray as himself anyway, its unique and promotes a personal style that is easily read and appreciated. It’s a. Some may see this a photographic story board of his life, his thoughts and his opinions self indulgent or vain, but when your as interesting, unique and individual and Olivier Zahm is, publishing your life story through an anti fashion magazine seems rather apt to me.

PURPLE magazine - a french wonder.

1992 : Elein Fleiss and Olivier Zahm started the magazine Purple Prose, a reaction against the superficial glamour of the 1980’s and with the aestetics of what usually is referred to as anti-fashion.

The magazine quickly became associated with the "realism" of the new fashion photography of the 1990’s, with names like Juergen Teller, Terry Richardson, Wolfgang Tillmans, and Mario Sorrenti[1].

In the introduction of the Purple Anthology, Zahm writes:

We launched Purple Prose in the early 1990s without any means, and without any experience, because we wanted to make a magazine that was radically different. We wanted to support the artists around us that noone else supported, much less talked about. [..] It would be a form of opposition of our own, different from the critical jargon of the generation of ’68. [..] From a visual standpoint, we represented the break from ’80s imagery (like Richard Avedon’s photography for Versace, for example). From an artistic standpoint, the artists of the early ’90s were rising up against art as capital fetish [..]. In saying that Purple is the portrait of a generation, I mean it’s a portrait of those who embody their times. At the same time, it’s a portrait of myself and Elein Fleiss, our ideas, our lives, and our aesthetics.”

In 2004 it divided into Purple Fashion published by Purple Institute based in Paris and New York, and Purple Journal, published by Les Editions Purple, based in Paris.

On February 16th the first installation of Purple Fashion's new online presence was launched. can be considered as the extension of the magazine but as a digital voice that offers immediate access to the world of Purple.

inspirational imagery for METROPOLIS.


LONDON - metropolis

london metropolis project: to design an outfit comprising of a skirt and shirt that portray your interpretation of LONDON METROPOLIS.

“I will capture your heart with a playful smile and a lingering gaze”

To me, this look is about capturing attention but with class and femininity. The tightly fitted under-skirt that conforms around the curves of the female body is shown in subtle glimpses from beneath layers of playful and energetic pleats that sweep to one side with direction and flare. These folds of fabric are continued in the shirt to emphasise a sense movement and softness against the more masculine details of the over sized cuffs and contrasting metal zip fastenings. The neckline is elegantly framed with a simplistic rolled hem to accentuate the woman’s feminine facial features and collarbone. This outfit is for the female who knows the art of subtlety, but is not afraid to make a statement with it.